Costa Rica is a mountainous country. A lot has changed from where I came from. Even though I have lived in Costa Rica for several years, the uplifting scenery is still incredible.
In Western New York, the nearest largest range slopes gently up to 2,000 feet. As I write this, I’m at least 1,000 feet higher and still, that’s still low for Costa Rica! Let me tell you, around here, there is some serious topography going on.
The center of the country is a mixture of volcanic and tectonic terrains that push the sky. Rivers and streams descend canyons and pour into warm lowlands teeming with parrots, macaws, and other tropical diversity. The usual scenery makes for slow, meandering rides but the scenery is pretty special.
Birds also make up for slow driving! If it weren’t for all these mountains, we wouldn’t have nearly as many bird species as Costa Rica. The great hills are natural walls that simultaneously capture and block rain, stop it from dispersing, and create other conditions for unique habitats. Each of the habitats has its birds including one of the most special; high elevation forests.
By high elevation I mean lands more or less above 1,800 meters. That point is about where birders start to see birds in the high, cold weather, birds you want to see because most of them are sweet endemics.
In the highlands of Costa Rica and Panama, we have 60 to 63 endemic bird species including several endemic subspecies (perhaps some will be changed to species level taxa). Of those birds, 20 or more live at high altitudes.
That’s like having more than 60 bird species that live only in the mountains of West Virginia or Wales.
Yes, imagine how crazy that would be! Such happy avian craziness came true in Costa Rica.
To see most of the high elevation species, you need to visit one of four main areas. Here’s a run-down and what to expect from birding in those areas. In case you’re wondering, I’ll just mention now that quetzals are equally easy to see in all these places (in suitable habitat of course).
Poas Volcano
Due to its proximity to the San Jose area, Poas has the fastest and easiest access to high-rise accommodations. Just drive 40 minutes on a main, well-paved road from Alajuela and you’ll be there!
Some other advantages
- Easy birding on the way to Poas National Park.
- Easily incorporated into roadside birding in middle elevation habitats.
- Especially good for silky-flycatchers and Fiery-throated Hummingbirds.
- There are many restaurants and cafes.
- Perfect choice for a quick morning or afternoon trip, especially from the Alajuela area.
Some disadvantages
- The forest is not as high as other places.
- If the road to the volcano is closed, there is very limited or no real access to elevations above 2,000 meters. On rare occasions, this may happen!
- Lacking Timberline Wren, Volcano Junco, Sulphur-winged Parakeet, Silvery-throated Jay, and Ochraceous Pewee.
- Usually busy on weekends.
Volcano color
Not many people go birding at Barva Volcano. There is a ranger station and beautiful forest but access is not as easy as other areas.
Some other advantages
- Beautiful trails in excellent forest at high elevations with excellent birding expected. Could be a good place for Highland Tinamou.
- A good choice for birders looking to avoid the crowds.
- Little birded (for those looking for personal discovery).
Some disadvantages
- You have to drive on a narrow road that is also used by over-sized milk trucks.
- You have to park your car and climb at least two kilometers.
- The trails are only accessed from the ranger station and don’t open until 8. You’ll probably also need to buy your tickets online and in advance.
- Very few dining options, maybe one or two where you leave your car.
- Like Poas, Barva also lacks Timberline Wren, Volcano Junco, Sulphur-winged Parakeet, Silvery-throated Jay, and Ochraceous Pewee.
Irazu and Turrialba Volcanoes
I put these two volcanoes together because they are next to each other. They marked the closest place to San Jose that was above the treeline. Irazu in particular has a nice, paved road up to 11,000 feet!
Some other advantages
- Easy access to good roads for Irazu.
- Some good roadside accommodation, especially in the Nochebuena restaurant area.
- Reliable site for mega Maroon-chested Ground-Dove. It may be “easier” here than anywhere else in the world.
- High enough for chances at Unspotted Saw-whet Owl, and a good spot for Volcano Junco and Timberline Wren.
Some disadvantages
- Rough roads to Turrialba.
- Often busy on weekends and holidays.
- Access to vast intact forests is rather limited.
- Silver-throated Jays and Ochraceous Pewees are very rare and local, and there aren’t any Sulphur-winged Parakeets.
Cerro de la Muerte and the high Talamancas
This is the main high elevation area visited by most tours and birders and with good reason. Talamancas has the largest areas of intact forest at high elevations, and there is a chance to see all of the high altitude specialties.
Even so, the place still has its ups and downs.
Some other advantages
- There are many beautiful places to explore. There are several sites and roads that access the great accommodation.
- Easy access to Timberline Wren and Volcano Junco.
- Best chance with jay and pewee (although they are still tough!).
- Chance at the Unspotted Saw-whet Owl.
- There are many lodging and dining options, especially in the Dota valley.
Some disadvantages
- The main access road is good but landslides can affect some parts during rainy season.
- Not very suitable as a day trip from San Jose. It is possible but will involve a lot of driving time.
These are the four, main high spots for birding in Costa Rica. If you have more time, a stay in Talamancas is worth it. However, since some species seem to be easier at Irazu and Poas, it is worth spending a day at one or both of these other sites!
Want to learn more about where to go birding in Costa Rica? Support this blog by getting “How to See, Find, and Identify Birds in Costa Rica” ; a 900 plus page birding site guide for Costa Rica. Start planning your Costa Rica birding trip today, I hope to see you here!
