STATEN ISLAND, NY — Seafood is delicious year-round, although Lent is the time when readers look for the best every year.
How do you find a good fish store? For one thing, the store shouldn’t smell like ammonia or have a funky fishy aroma. Also, upon request the fishmonger must present an object near the customer for inspection. A whole fish in its prime will have clear eyes, a springy flesh and smell like the sea.
Here are my top picks (ranked) for the best dedicated fish markets in the borough.
11.) Fish Market Ary — 81 Brook St., New Brighton, 347-466-4683
A relatively new place in the neighborhood that has taken in some of the former Castleton Avenue Boston Market regulars from the past. Inventory is prime and fresh — Clean shrimp, fillets, clams, oysters and some frozen fish are available in moderate supply. Note that prices are not posted.
Time: 8 am to 7 pm; Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm
10.) Manuel Fish Market — 1369 Forest Ave., Port Richmond; 718-301-8229
Formerly known as the sturdy Verrazano Seafood under the previous owner, it has become a pretty utilitarian market with whole fish and a shucker on duty.
Time: 9:30 am to 6:30 pm daily
9.) Lobster House Joe’s — 1898 Hylan Blvd., Dongan Hills; 718-667-0003 and 4707 Arthur Kill Rd., Charleston; 718-227-0003; Lobsterhousesi.com
The Dongan Hills location, the original, has a small display case. The restaurant offers a sit-down dining area and a clam bar for on-premise consumption.
Both lobster and shrimp are excellent sources with crustaceans sold fresh or steamed.
The Charleston spot keeps the fish fresh in the kitchen with raw items like shrimp, scallops, fillets and lobster sold upon request. All menu items are available to go, prepared by the chef.
Time: Both open from 11 am to 10 pm daily; Friday and Saturday until 11 pm
8.) Sea Breeze on Top Tomato — 1071 Bay St., Rosebank; 718-981-8571 or Top Tomato’s main number at 718-816-1100
Seafood is presented whole and fleshy, varietals appealing to many cultural backgrounds and tastes. For those who produce fish stock from scratch, this concession is a rich resource. Also enjoy some of the heat-and-serve preparations along with some prepared salads.
Time: 8:30 am-ish to 7 pm-ish daily
7.) Fisherman’s Cove at Met Foods – 1177 Hylan Blvd,, Grasmere; 718-720-5800
Small counter with a modest but premium selection of salmon, flounder, shrimp, scallops and consistent seafood salad and heat-and-serve selections. Knowledgeable fishmongers on duty can shuck clams and oysters, provide basic meal preparation tips.
Time: Monday to Friday from 7 am to 7 pm; Saturday, Sunday from 7 am to 6 pm
6.) Sea Breeze at Met Foods — 1795 Victory Blvd., Castleton Corners; 718-524-0800
A respectable variety of fresh selections with an impressive Met spice section near the fish counter to put the house creations over the top.
Time: 9:30 am to 6 pm daily
5.) Rossville Fish Market — 655 Rossville Ave., Rossville; 718-317-6947
For fillets, as opposed to whole fish, look for mostly salmon, single varieties, halibut, tuna, Branzino, swordfish, wet and occasionally whitefish in the inventory. Also, expect staples like shrimp, mussels and clams.
Time: Monday to Saturday from 8 am to 6:30 pm; Sunday from 8:30 am to 5 pm
4.) La Bella Marketplace — 99 Ellis St., Tottenville; 718-967-2070, (Press 2, then 3) Labellamarkets.com
Carve out some time to peruse the Italian superstore’s fish department with its extensive inventory. Look for the frequent availability of delicacies such as fresh clams and sea urchin, the latter of which can be used to make pasta.
Time: Monday to Saturday from 8 am to 7 pm, Sunday from 8 am to 6 pm
3.) Belfiore Atlantic Fishery and Produce — 2500 Victory Blvd., Willowbrook; 718-477-1041
One of the borough’s newest fish shops, it features a classy set up where the freshness on display speaks for itself. Locally caught fish from the Atlantic Highlands can be turned into beautifully prepared items — blackened, fried, stuffed and/or served as a to-go meal with a side like mashed potatoes.
Time: 8 am to 6 pm daily except Sunday when closing is 3 pm
2.) Octopus Garden — 15 Newark Ave., Elm Park; 718-946-1100, Facebook.com/Octopus-Garden
As the name suggests, here is an eight-legged epicenter with calamaretti from Spain to red shrimps called Carabineros. And find other great fish — local catches like skate and, in season, blackfish, sea bass and porgies. Between frozen and fresh fish, including snails — and tender, prepared octopus in various sizes — the store offers a good school for fish.
Time: Monday to Saturday 8 am to 4 pm and closed Sunday
1.) Carlos Fish Market — 3852 Richmond Ave., Eltingville, 718-967-5758
Courtesy of the Yoon family, the shrimps are cleaned and the clams cleaned, no extra charge. A good inventory includes live Maine lobsters, lobster tails, snow crab legs, Alaskan King crab legs and, when in season, live blue crabs.
Time: Monday to Friday 9 am to 6 pm; Saturday from 9 am to 3 pm and closed on Sunday
Pamela Silvestri is Advance Food Editor. He can be reached at [email protected].