An hour’s drive from central Tokyo, a saltwater fish-farming factory sits atop a hill covered in thickets filled with chirping birds in Kisarazu, Chiba prefecture.
The salmon trout is produced at a factory there, called FRD Japan Co.’s Kisarazu Plant.
Headquartered in Saitama Prefecture, the company, founded in 2013, boasts “eco-friendly, ocean-free technology to grow seafood on land.”
Microbes are adopted for specialized water treatment by the corporation so that sea creatures can be raised from eggs on land under a closed water circulation system.
Water for the pool to grow salmon trout is circulated within the works, meaning nothing is released into seas and rivers. It also facilitates water quality control, eliminating the need to rely on antibiotics or other chemicals.
For land-based fish farming, the water temperature needs to be kept at a constant 18 degrees or lower, making electricity bills the biggest expense for most businesses.
However, Chihiro Miyagawa, FRD Japan’s chief marketer, says that’s not the case at his company.
“We don’t use seawater, whose temperature can reach up to 30 degrees during the summer,” he said. “Fish can be released year-round without the cost of refrigeration that way.”
Factory fish are also not exposed to parasites from the ocean, much to the delight of consumers looking for seafood that is safe to eat raw.
Unsurprisingly, the salmon trout is branded as Okasodachi (Land-farmed).
Up to 10,000 fish totaling 30 tons are produced and sold annually to supermarkets as well as conveyor-belt sushi restaurants and other eateries especially in the Kanto region around the capital.
A new plant is also being built with investments from partners such as trading house Mitsui & Co.
The ultimate goal is to culture 3,500 tons per year–the level at which FRD Japan’s farming project will be profitable.
This type of farming can be built anywhere if sites of appropriate size can be obtained. Setting up close to where to eat seafood can also help reduce carbon dioxide emissions associated with transportation and the long work hours of truck drivers.
FISH ON THE GROUND
An increasing number of major trading companies are expanding into land-based salmon farming.
There are limited areas suitable for salmon farming in the world’s two leading countries, Norway and Chile, despite the species’ worldwide popularity as an ingredient in sushi.
That puts salmon in short supply on an ongoing basis.
Mitsubishi Corp. has entered into a joint venture with food manufacturer Maruha Nichiro Corp., which intends to begin construction of a semi-closed circulation facility for commercial purposes in Toyama Prefecture by the end of fiscal 2024.
Working with a Norwegian enterprise, Marubeni Corp. has initiated a fish farming project at the foot of Mount Fuji. The first shipment of seafood produced there is scheduled for this year, with its annual output estimated to reach 5,300 tons.
Itochu Corp., meanwhile, has partnered with a company headquartered in the United Arab Emirates. They are building one of the largest plants in Japan in Tsu.
CATERING TO DEMAND
Since water covers 70 percent of the Earth’s surface, many may make the mistake of thinking that the resources from the oceans and seas are limitless and endless. However, there are limitations.
Although global natural fish catches are stable, global demand for seafood continues to increase. Total global seafood consumption has doubled over the past half century.
As a result, 35 percent of water resources are overused, according to data from the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) and Japan’s latest white paper on fisheries.
Only 65 percent are untouched, unused or properly used, compared to 90 percent half a century ago.
Hoping to address the issue, fish farming plays a significant part in chasing wolf demand.
Besides on-ground cultivation, conventional oceanic farm operators are looking for ways to make a sustainable fishing method a reality.
For example, conveyor-belt sushi giant Kura Sushi Inc. is pitching “AI Yellowtail” and “AI Cherry Bass” to its 2022 menu.
Working with fish famers across Japan, Kura Sushi incorporates a smart feeding system mounted on image recognition technology driven by artificial intelligence.
The time and amount of food given is determined by the AI, keeping in mind the movements and state of the fish. Since farmers can check operation reports on their smartphones, they no longer have to go to sea in boats three times a day to feed fish.
Since the introduction of AI, food expenditures have been reduced by 10 percent, on average. Fewer residues are also expected to result in a lighter environmental burden on the oceans.
The costs of the system will be borne by Kura Sushi.
“Farmers tell us that the framework allows them to reduce work hours and loads while still ensuring a stable income,” explains Akihiro Tsuji, manager of Kura Sushi’s publicity department. “They now feel safe about their children taking over their business.”
Aside from this effort, Kura Sushi has also turned to fish farming to reduce the amount of seafood that is thrown away after it is hauled ashore. These efforts include the corporation raising wild-caught fish that are too small for market until they reach marketable sizes.
GROWING CONSUMER AWARENESS
Both are changing consumer awareness of fishing.
Since its 2021 edition, the world-renowned Michelin Guide to fine dining has begun to publicly commend chefs and restaurant operators who strive for environmental protection and sustainable gastronomy with “green stars.”
The 2023 food possibility award is presented by Gurunavi Research Institute Inc. in fish raised through land-based aquaculture.
Fumio Yonezawa, a director of a group called Chefs for the Blue, which conducts promotional campaigns regarding the sea and its food culture, recounts the fascination with artificial fish farming.
“Culturized fish these days are marked by a great taste and stable quality,” Yonezawa said. “They are not just substitutes for natural seafood. They are among the best options to choose from as an independent food source.
However, the director urged caution at the same time.
“It should be noted that powdered fish flesh is also used as feed for farmed fish,” Yonezawa said. “There will come a time when chefs and consumers must pay due attention to prevent overfishing of seafood.”
