Driving in Costa Rica. Should you do this? What does it look like? How about taking a bus? What about road issues and birding by car?
If you’re thinking about driving in Costa Rica, wondering if you should take the wheel or let a local drive, this post is for you. If you don’t plan to drive but are still interested in what driving in Costa Rica is like, this post is for you too.
I have written about this topic on other occasions, here is my latest take on the various aspects of driving through the land of quetzals, toucans, and visiting observers.
Driving Expectations in Costa Rica
Thinking of driving in Costa Rica? Not sure if you should drive yourself or take the shuttles? That’s a good consideration, after all, driving in Costa Rica can be nothing like home.
In other words, it’s not but it’s also not all that different from driving in Canada, the USA, or Europe. In general, it’s not that relaxed, the streets are quite crowded, and the percentage of bad drivers is quite high. If it sounds like home, you’re good to go!
Based on driving in Costa Rica for several years and in all conditions, here’s the deal. Expect similar driving rules but also expect people to break many of them every day. Breaking the rule is not consistent but it happens enough to expect people to do it.
For example, here are some of the ones I saw last week, and usually:
-Cars stop on the side of a busy road and partially block a lane because they are picking up someone or going to the bank or doing something else that is more important to them than causing traffic jams and unsafe conditions.
-Occasionally cars rushing through traffic to turn left without really checking.
-Cars rushing in front of you because you left space between you and the car in front to avoid hitting you (I see fender benders like that every day), in slow or fast traffic.
-Driving too slowly with sudden inexplicable stops and driving too fast, even in schools.
-People passing by in dangerous situations, especially on highways.
-Likely to drive drunk, especially after the bars are closed, and continue to use a cell phone while driving.
-Driving through red lights and maybe not stopping enough at stop signs. It doesn’t happen often but often enough to be careful!
Now these may be things you can see at home too, so you know how to drive in Costa Rica. Otherwise, just drive carefully and defensively and you’ll be fine.
Traffic Police
Costa Rica actually has a lot of driving rules but not enough enforcement. The traffic police is the only police that actually issues tickets and we just don’t have enough.
Usually, traffic police in Costa Rica wait on the side of the road with a speed camera. They can also wait in areas where people illegally overtake cars and mostly watch for cars without up-to-date registration and inspection stickers.
They also make occasional stops to check for a license. If you see a traffic officer step into your lane and wave at you to stop, that’s what they’re doing. Pop in and see what they like. They rarely stop rental cars but, if you speed over the limit or pass illegally, yes, they will stop you and give you a heavy fine.
Be very careful to slow down in areas where it drops to 60 ks per hour even when other cars are passing!
Motorcycles
Dirt bikes, speed bikes, and even weekend Harleys, you’ll probably see them all. Motorcycles, especially dirt bikes, are common in Costa Rica. Cheaper than cars, faster and easier to get through traffic, you might want one too!
They should also follow the same rules as cars but they don’t and don’t really enforce them (except for speeding and official things like having a license). Motorcycles are the reason why you can’t just watch the road in front of you. I watch the mirrors, always watching what comes from behind; it’s very common for motorcycles to zip between cars and fly past you on either side.
Left? Changing lanes? Make sure some motorcycles don’t fly into view. Oh yeah, they drive dangerously, and yes, there are many fatal motorcycle accidents. On weekends, you can also see youngsters doing wheelies on busy roads. Don’t be surprised!
Cyclists
Biking has become very popular in Costa Rica. Many people climb volcanoes, their feats are truly amazing!
You’ll see a lot on the weekend, and they’ll slow down traffic. Few roads in Costa Rica have shoulders, not much space but that doesn’t stop cyclists. Just be patient and don’t expect them to move out of the way, even if they’re taking a full lane. Eventually you will have a chance to pass them safely.
Road Conditions, Four Wheel Drive?
How about the roads? I am happy to say that most of the roads in Costa Rica are beautiful! Some still have holes and lots of lumps but it’s not like it was 20 or even 15 years ago.
Most of the main roads are pretty good. You can still run into big pot holes, you still have to watch out for them but the main roads are pretty good. Different, secondary roads are different but the gravel ones are fine. However, many little used tracks are definitely not correct.
You can explore but play it by ear. If the track has slippery mud, turn! Just because a road is on the map doesn’t mean you can use it. Get off the slippery mud and you might get out of there, you might slide right off the road.
There is also the issue of crossing streams. Just use common sense- if that stream seems too deep, don’t!
So what about four-wheel drive? Do you need it? Not if you’re just traveling between birding lodges (as long as their entrance road doesn’t require four wheel drive!). However, if you want to explore other areas and visit exciting places like Pocosol, El Copal, and Laguna del Lagarto, yes, to be sure, get the four-wheel drive.
When Not to Drive in Costa Rica and other Safety Issues
Are there times you shouldn’t drive in Costa Rica? It’s not necessary, but I don’t recommend doing a lot of night driving, especially in the mountains. Driving at night in Costa Rica is not fun because most roads have poor or no lighting, it’s harder to see pot holes and other odd things to avoid, and people with dark clothes and bikes without reflectors is regular.
Lines and reflectors on the side of the road are also poor or non-existent. When combined with mountain fog, those factors in particular can make for particularly scary driving conditions.
For other safety issues, never leave anything of value in an unattended car, and never leave wine or other valuables in a vehicle even in a guarded parking lot. Unattended vehicles are often targeted, guarded parking areas less so but it can still happen, why take the chance?
Is Birding in Costa Rica Possible by Car?
Definitely! There are many places with good habitat along the way and I have always birded this way. I’ve seen everything from quetzals to eagles and ants.
To have a better chance at forest interior species like tinamous and quail-doves, it’s important to include trail birding as well but you’ll definitely see a lot while road birding in Costa Rica.
However, you can’t really stop on busy roads, most of which lack a shoulder. I stopped on other roads but still stopped where the occasional car might pass and no matter how far down the road I could always see it.
Costa Rica Car Rentals, Shuttles, or Buses
Rent a car and you’ll have great freedom on the road. I usually work with Vamos Rent a Car but many people have also had good experiences with other companies.
Know that prices go up a bit with optional insurance but I always feel better getting full coverage.
The shuttles are nice and comfortable. They are not cheap but are a nice, relaxing way to get from one place to another. Of course, this limits movement but if you only plan on birding the hotel or ecolodge grounds, you’ll be fine.
Buses also go almost everywhere and are the cheapest way to get around but, they will eat up your precious birding time.
Gas Pumping
All of this is full service in Costa Rica. Nope, no pumping your own gas, you have to wait for the attendant and tell them how much you want. To fill up the car, say, “Lleno porfavor”. You will also have a choice of two or three types of gas with the most value. Speaking of cost, gas is quite expensive in Costa Rica and runs around $5 per gallon.
The distances are not great but it is expensive.
The attendant can also wash windows, check tire pressure, etc.
The Electric Car Situation in Costa Rica
Electric cars are becoming more and more popular in Costa Rica! I love it, we have too much air pollution in the Central Valley and, as a species, we need to stop burning fossil fuels now.
Nowadays, electric cars are also feasible in Costa Rica because the distances are not that far. Driving uphill and using the necessary air conditioning eats up the charge but the distances are still close. There are also a growing number of charging stations although some require special cards that are only obtained through bureaucratic processes, and some do not work.
However, to meet the demand, it looks like there will be more charging station services available.
Wondering where to drive and birding in Costa Rica? Support this blog by purchasing my 900 plus page ebook, “How to See, Find, and Identify Birds in Costa Rica”. Hope to see you here!
