Birding hotspots are created from a mixture of particularly good birding (rare species and/or high numbers), and accessibility. That part of access is key because without it, of course a birding hotspot is “only good for the birds”. Yes, healthy ecosystems and birds with habitats are paramount but let’s face it, we’re also talking about birding.
And without the “birding” part, by definition, a great place for birding can’t really be a birding hotspot. For example, I can assure you that the forested depths of Braulio Carrillo National Park are amazing birding. I’ve never been but we’re talking about a large area of intact, untouched rainforest (mostly of the middle elevation variety). It should host a range of rare and unusual species!
BUT, we can only assume because no one really birded there. Yes, quite a bit but most areas in the park have not been explored enough. No birding = no birding hotspot. It’s one of those places that would be nice and exciting but…nope, can’t really get in there.
At least we got a few sites on and near the edges of that big tropical forest and yes, some live up to their hotspot status. One of the best known is a small route 126 roadside area called, “Cinchona”.
Cinchona made its birding mark when two cafes installed fruit and hummingbird feeders in the early 2000s. As expected, lots of cool birds visited, even fancy ones like barbets and Northern Emerald Toucanets.
In-your-face views of beautiful tropical birds have put Cinchona on the global birding map. Although the tragic earthquake of 2009 stopped visits for a while, the Cinchona hummingbird cafe has been rebuilt and is sure to rise again. This special place continues to live up to its birding hotspot status and yet, there is more!
A few months ago, local birders got curious and checked out the birding across the street from the cafe. Not like in the farm animal stalls (you’ll see what I mean) but above and behind that place. Back along the old road that passed through the settlement, they found some good things. A few days ago, I had the opportunity to bird that road. Here’s some of what I found and what to expect.
People still live in Old Cinchona
It probably seems strange to mention that but there is a reason why a community at the end of the road is called “Nuevo Cinchona”. “New Cinchona” was built to accommodate people who lost their homes in the 2009 earthquake.
The violent earthquake brought down most of the old Cinchona, perhaps all of it. Several people also lost their lives. I knew about New Cinchona, I thought everyone had moved there, that the old place was completely abandoned. As I found out the other day, no, no!
Although some structures are damaged and abandoned, some people live in old Cinchona. They have small farms and some probably work in the cafe as well. As usual on the tracks passing through the fields, a couple of dogs would come out to bark and growl but the ones we met were more afraid of us than dangerous.
Walk Uphill but Carry a Stick
To visit, head to the Cinchona hummingbird cafe (aka Mirador de Catarata de San Fernando) and walk down the concrete driveway next to the animal stalls. It’s not a long walk but it is a steep one and, in wet weather, that driveway can be slippery.
After parking at the cafe, it’s a good idea to tell the workers or owner of the cafe that you will be birding there. Tell them, “Voy arriba a la calle vieja para observar aves. Return to comer en el cafe.” That also means you’ll be back to eat or have a coffee at the cafe. And of course you will because they have feeders with lots of beautiful birdies.
After surviving the driveway, you have two main options; walking left or right. I haven’t been able to walk properly but those roads seem to lead to good secondary growth and probably fair forest too. However, the best accommodation seems to be on the left, walking uphill.
The old road was actually a track that was not normally used by vehicles. Since it’s also slippery in some parts, if you choose to brave it, bring a walking stick or two!
Good Overlooks for Raptor Watching
Venturing down the old road, one of the first things I noticed was the mesmerizing, raptor watching view. Low cloud and mist removed raptor sightings from our list but better weather could turn up a few species.
Barred and Short-tailed Hawks are regulars but other birds of prey also hunt there. Bring a scope to scan distant Solitary Eagles soaring through the forest on the other side of the canyon. Don’t count on the eagle but this is a good place to watch for it.
Instead, you may see the Ornate Hawk-Eagle (I heard one and at least a couple that usually use that area), Black Hawk-Eagle, and maybe even Black and White Hawk-Eagle. Other possible raptors include the White Hawk, Bicolored Hawk, Gray Hawk, Swallow-tailed Kite, Great Black Hawk, and Bat Falcon.
Good Habitat, the Best is at the End of the Road
In general, the road has good accommodation. It begins with secondary growth, passes through patches of forest next to pasture, and ends in beautiful cloud forest. There are a variety of species including Gray-crowed Yellowthroat (probably also Olive-crowned) and Slaty Spinetail as well as many small birds that feed on fruit-bearing shrubs and trees (such as tanagers, Prong-billed Barbet, Collared Trogon, and more).
Forest hosts expect middle elevation species along with some goodies like foliage-gleaners (I had both Lineated and Buff-fronted), White-throated Spadebill, and Rufous-breasted Antthrush. The antthrush was one of our main targets but despite being close to one of the three birds heard, it still gave us the slip.
Many other beautiful birds were there too. An Azure-hooded Jay was around (we heard one), we got a look at a quetzal, and other birders saw a Costa Rican Pygmy-Owl, a Black-banded Woodcreeper, and a Red-fronted Parrotlet. I bet the Strong-billed Woodcreeper is happening too and who knows what else might show up?
If you visit the Cinchona hummingbird cafe, you’re good at walking on tracks with slippery spots, and you feel adventurous, you’re a good candidate for the Old Cinchona Road. I look forward to more exploration in that area. It certainly lives up to birding hotspot status!
I need to update my ebook on birding in Costa Rica with this site but “How to See, Find, and Identify Birds in Costa Rica” still covers hundreds of other birding sites. birding in Costa Rica. It also shows how to find those birds too.
Hope to see you here, maybe birding on Old Cinchona Road.